The Affenpinscher is a little breed of dog with a lot of personality. They have a face that somewhat resembles a monkey, that is why they have their name (Affen is a German word for monkey) In the country where the breed originated it is often called Zwergaffenpinscher (Zwerg means dwarf) so you might say that it resembles a small monkey dog. In France they named the Affenpinscher the mustached devil! But no matter what it’s name is, or what you call it, the Affenpinscher is a charming and often comical little breed of dog, it being the smallest of the Schnauzers and Pinschers breed. This breed tends to be alert, gentle, intelligent and very loving. Although keep in mind that they tend to be wary of strangers and make a good defensive show of guarding the house.

The average size of the Affenpinscher is about 9 ½ inches, and his weight should be somewhere between 6 and 9 pounds. The recommended feeding for the Affenpinscher is about 1/3 to ½ of a can of a quality food (about 6 oz.) and you should add an equal amount of biscuit or dry food. Make sure that it has plenty of water.

The Affenpinscher needs some exercise, but not as much as an active larger breed. Short walks will suffice but this breed will surely walk more if you are a willing participant. You should brush them regularly to keep their coat shiny and to avoid mating.

The Affenpinscher has an interesting background. Until 1896, the Miniature Pinschers and Affenpinschers were classified as a single breed. At that time they were decided to be separate breeds at the Berlin dog show. The longer coated breed became known as the Affenpinscher. The exact background of the Affenpinscher is somewhat of a mystery. It was depicted in paintings in the 15^th century but it’s exact origin is unknown. It is, however, undisputed that the breed originated in Germany. Some people think that it is related to the Brussels Griffon, while others feel that the Brussels Griffon came from the Affenpinscher. It could also bee that the Affenpinscher is a toy version of the Zwergschnauzer (coarse-haired terrier). It was recognized by the AKC in 1936

Regardless of the Affenpinscher’s origin it is a delightful breed to own. Friendly and loyal to the family and often lacking a knowledge of it’s small size when the family is threatened. It should provide years of loving companionship and countless hours of comedy relief.

As a responsible dog owner it is up to you to ensure the health and happiness of your dog. It is often a difficult thing to do because our dogs tend to be curious, yet smart and can get themselves into predicaments that can cause injury. If your dog should get sick or injured then it would be up to you to make sure that proper treatment is administered.

First, I must say that this or any of my articles are no substitute for the care of a good veterinarian. Some times there are things that go wrong that you, as a dog owner, are unable to handle or deal with. There may also be questions that you have about a particular injury or illness that will need to be, and should be addressed by a vet.

Knowledge is power, and you must make sure to be knowledgeable about dog first aid so you can properly treat the little things that go wrong, or to help your dog cope until you are able to get him adequate care. Just make sure that you are not over treating something that really should be handled by a professional. This could be damaging to your dog’s health and you are the one responsible for that health. If the dog is in need of a vet, please make sure that he is taken to the vet.

You should prepare yourself now for the possibility that you will need to administer first aid to your dog. If something should happen unexpectedly you will want to be able to handle the situation at that time with the materials that you have on hand. It’s amazing though that an untreated small problem can often turn into a big problem before know it.

Proper first aid supplies

Here is a short list of some of the first aid supplies that you should have on hand. These supplies can be found in many pet catalogs, pet stores or internet websites. You can also find a lot of them right in your local drug store.

You should have such things as Ammonia, Peroxide, some sort of antibiotic cream, hydro cortisone, eyewash and a liquid antihistamine.

Having the basic materials to handle a first aid situation is important as well. Here is a short list of some of the things you should have on hand just in case you might need them. Gauze, bandages, adhesive tape, some cotton (absorbent) scissors, tweezers, thermometer (rectal) blankets, and a plastic bowl for mixing medicines.

Most important make sure you have your vets number handy, preferably written on the package where you keep your doggy first aid supplies. A contact number for after hours and emergencies should be kept as well.

Respiratory disorders in your dog can be alarming at times and they should be treated as a potential problem. As I always tend to say, your dog can not tell you when something is wrong. Having breathing problems is a sign that something is not right and should be treated as such.

Sneezing / Nasal Discharge: Sneezing is not uncommon in dogs. They often sneeze when they wake up, or at other times like if they are laying on their backs. However, an allergic sneeze is different from an infectious sneeze. The infectious sneeze will often cause puss. If you notice blood coming from one of your dogs nostrils this could be a sign of a tumor or a foreign object lodged in his nasal cavity.

If your dog is displaying any symptoms other than the normal sneezing you should consult with your veterinarian right away to find out what the problem really is. Allergic sneezing can be treated by removing the cause of the allergy or by antihistamines. If it is an infection that is causing the sneezing your vet can give you the proper medications to treat the infection. In the worst case if there is a tumor your vet will likely need to operate, while if it a foreign object it can be removed once it has moved forward enough in the nasal passage to be easily reached.

Abnormal Breathing: If you notice that your dog is showing some abnormal breathing you should act quickly. If the breathing is distresses or unusual it can signal a life threatening situation or a major issue with your dog’s health. Coughing blood or a puss discharge along with a lack of energy is also something that should be looked into without delay. Last but not least shallow or rapid breathing can also be a sign of a serious problem.

If your dog is displaying any of these breathing problems then your veterinarian should be consulted right away. This is not something that should be delayed just because no physical injury is obvious. The fact that your dog is having trouble is evident by his breathing so make sure that you take care of it immediately.

Coughing or Gagging: This could be caused by a heart problem, a windpipe that is collapsed, bronchitis or perhaps even a parasite. If fluid is building up in your dog’s lungs this could cause it to gag. Typically the coughing or gagging gets worse with time and may be more noticeable after exercise.

If your dog is having problems then you should seek a veterinarian’s advice immediately. He may have to help the dog to breathe by inserting an artificial windpipe, with medication or with surgery. If the coughing is heart related and you are able to improve his cardiac function then this should relieve the coughing.

If you are dealing with a respiratory disorder, or if you can talk to someone who suffers from one then you know that it is not a fun thing to endure. Your dog is unable to tell you when he has a problem but if you notice some of these things in your dog hopefully this article will help you to better deal with it.

Acute Coughing: This is different from a persistent coughing problem, and it is a sign (generally speaking) of something less serious but it could be important to note the situation regardless. Acute coughing can be a sign of kennel cough, bronchitis, pneumonia or even something foreign in the airway. It could also signal some form of infection that needs attention. Kennel cough if passed on from dog to dog (like a cold) and causes an inflammation in the voice box. Bronchitis is a bacterial or allergic inflammation of the bronchi that are located in the lungs.

If your dog has Kennel cough you should make sure to keep him away from other dogs as it is highly contagious and the other dogs could end up with the same disease. Take him to the veterinarian immediately for treatment (call ahead to make sure of a good time to come in when other dogs are not present). The vet can give him cough suppressants to ease the discomfort of the illness. Medications will also be given to help treat any of the illnesses that we discussed. Of course if a foreign object is lodged in your dog’s throat this is a serious situation and should be treated by a veterinarian right away. He should be able to remove the object with forceps.

If snoring is a problem (in your dog, not your husband) this can come from something that is breed specific. Some breeds have elongated soft palates that are hanging in the backs of their throats and they can cause a partial blockage of the larynx which in turn makes the dog snore. It can also be cause by an allergic inflammation in the dog’s throat, this would cause the dog to snore and the snoring could be worse if the dog happens to have narrow nostrils.

Snoring in itself generally does not signify a serious issue but if it is a problem it is always best to ask your veterinarian for his opinion. In the worst case, in some breeds, it could signify a heart or breathing problem which would need to be addressed immediately.

Sometimes a dog’s voice will change and you will notice that his bark is different than it was before. This can be caused by a number of things such as a damaged larynx, allergic problems or a reaction to bee stings or, in rare cases, a tumor has developed that caused the dog’s voice to change.

You should take your dog to the vet for a check up as he may be able to give your dog antihistamines or some other medication to help reduce the swelling. If the worst is true and there is a tumor it may have to be removed with surgery.

One of the most difficult things about being a dog owner is that they aren’t able to tell you when something is wrong. This can be a problem, especially if what they are going through is painful and needs attention. If you’ve ever had a toothache then you can be sympathetic with your dog if they are having problems with their mouths as well. Today we are going to discuss three things that could be wrong with your dog’s mouth, how to recognize them and what to do about them.

Excessive Drooling: There are a lot of different things that can cause a dog to drool excessively. It could by a cyst on the salivary gland, some sort of periodontal disease, an injury to the tongue or mouth lining, or perhaps just something lodged in their mouth, perhaps between their teeth. If it is cysts they should look like blisters under the tongue, periodontal disease can destroy their teeth by harming the “cement” that keeps them in place, mouth wounds can happen just like us biting the insides of our mouths or they can come from fighting with other dogs.

If you notice that your dog is drooling excessively you should seek the advice of a trained veterinarian. Cysts on the salivary glands need to be drained, or perhaps even removed. Periodontal disease should be treated and, in the worst case, your dog’s teeth may need to be removed if the disease is advanced. Of course that is not always the case. If a mouth injury is causing your dog to drool they you may need to switch his food to a softer variety until the injury heals so he doesn’t continue to injure himself over and over.

Misaligned Bite: Just like humans, dogs can have an under bite or an overbite. They are called undershot jaws and overshot jaws in a dog. You can generally tell if this is the case with you dog by looking at his mouth. When a dog has his mouth shut his upper and lower teeth should mesh perfectly. There are some breeds that have an undershot or overshot jaw by nature. The Pekingese has an undershot jaw while breeds such as the Doberman tend to have an overshot jaw.

If your dog has an undershot or an overshot jaw typically it is not a cause for alarm unless it is making your dog uncomfortable. If treatment is needed then it is generally corrected by fitting a removable tool over the upper front teeth and palate to help ease the dog’s teeth into a more comfortable position.

Something that has become a big problem, especially with unscrupulous breeders is congenital problems. There are a variety of illnesses that can come from irresponsible breeding so I thought that I would write an article to help you to avoid this problem with your future dog, or if you plan on breeding dogs. Of course the best time to prevent congenital problems is even before the breeding begins, but what should you do if your dog was born with one of these health problems?

There are some options available to help you dog that was born with a defect. These range from surgery to correct some sort of structural problem to regulating it’s feeding, exercise and grooming to help control the disorder but by far the best way is to prevent them from happening in the first place.

While this is not an exhaustive list of options it does give you a few ways that you can stop congenital problems from happening in the first place.

First you should never breed unhealthy dogs. If you have a stud and a bitch that are unhealthy then the odds are that you are going to end up with an unhealthy litter. Even if one of the dogs is in excellent health and the other is unhealthy, it is likely that the bad genes are going to be passed onto the litter. Some things to look out for are obvious birth defects or behavioural problems (although the later may have something to do with the owner and not be a breed problem at all) Also be aware of the dogs health support system overall as it may pass on something to the litter and may not be a good candidate for healthy breeding. You should also not take on a puppy with a health problem unless you are willing and able to give the care that they need on a regular basis. If you are able to do this then great, but it could be bad for the dog if you are unable or unwilling to take on that additional responsibility.

Make sure that you research the dog’s family history to check for any health disorders. These could range from an overall unhealthy disposition to ear and eye problems or other issues that may be obvious when you do the family research. You should also make yourself aware of any temperament issues, although I tend to put these in another category, but it is an important thing to consider. Check both parents thoroughly for health problems and if they have already had litters make sure of the percentage of healthy dogs.

Close relatives should not be bred, such as siblings, parents, aunts and uncles. There are legal precedents to avoid this in humans, and for good reason. It is up to the breeder to do the responsible thing and not breed too close of relatives. Along the same lines you should not be breeding inbred dogs. Be especially careful of breeds that are popular within your area because inbreeding could be a problem.

There are a lot of other things that can be considered when choosing a new puppy or picking out dogs to breed but this short list should get you started. There are an inexhaustible amount of books available on this subject that will help you to be a responsible breeder and to avoid passing on defects that would be hard on the puppy.

When the hair on a coat gets tangled, usually with the dog’s undercoat it forms a tight knot that resists brushing, This is what is known as a mat, and they can be quite frustrating. Mats often form in areas where there are corners, such as the base of legs, under the tail and around the ears. I know that Chase gets mats quite often around his ears and they need attention regularly. Sometimes a daily brushing and combing can reduce the mats but they can come from nowhere seemingly.

The hairs on a dog are covered with tiny scales that tend to stick up when the hair is treated harshly. These “scales” then get tangled with the undercoat or with dirt and other debris and can form hair. They are similar to Velcro, or the tiny stickers that cling to your pants leg and accumulate when you walk through them. Eventually they grow and form a solid bundle of hair that no brush can find it’s way through.

Most people tend to just cut the mats out with scissors and leave holes in the dog’s coat, and at times mats are so bad that it leaves you no choice but to shave the dog, ridding it of all the mats at once. The method that you choose should take into consideration the comfort of the dog since it can be quite uncomfortable if you try to comb the mats out.

There are some tools available to help you get the mats out from your dog’s coat. These help keep the coat intact and make it a more pleasant experience for both you and the dog.

Oil based coat conditioner: This spray will prepare the dog’s coat and helps to smooth out the scales that caused the mat in the first place. With the use of the oil based conditioner spray it can help you to move a comb through the coat easier

Mat Comb: This is a comb tool that is similar to a comb but it has blades instead of teeth. This cuts the mat into smaller slices that can then be combed out easier.

Mat Splitter: This is a blade with a curved handle that’s job is to cut through a mat to make it more manageable.

Scissors: If you are going to use scissors to cut out the dog’s mats make sure that it is sharp and that you have someone help hold the dog if necessary so you do not harm the dog

Slicker Brush: for finalizing the coat after you brush out the mats

Using these tools in the right way will help you to take good care of your dog when they have mats.

You might not think that there is much to drying your dog after you are done grooming them, but there are actually 3 different ways that we will discuss. They are the cage dry, the fluff dry and the towel dry. These aren’t the only ways to dry your dog, but they are 3 of the more popular ways.

Fluff Drying: One of the more difficult to get right, the fluff dry method is used on longer haired dogs such as the Afghan, Sheepdogs and Poodles. For fluff drying you will need a high speed floor dryer. The thing that makes fluff drying more difficult is that you not only have to dry the hair, but you also need to straighten it at the same time. First, direct the warm air from the dryer at the part of the coat that you will be working on. At the same time you will need to brush that hair with quick, yet even strokes until the hair finishes drying, and if all goes well the dry hair will be straight. It’s important to learn this skill as it will make a large difference in how the finished job will look. It takes some practice, especially around the head and ears, and also the legs.

Cage Drying: The second method of drying that we will discuss is the cage drying method, sometimes called the kennel drying method. With the cage drying method you will need to attach the cage dryer onto the kennel and then put the dog into the cage, on a towel, until he is dry. This is a simple way to dry a dog, and very effective, but care must be taken to properly ventilate the cage to avoid suffocation. Sometimes the dog may be too big for the kennel and in that case you will need to dry your dog on a grooming table using a floor dryer.

Towel Drying: The towel drying method is effective with small breeds such as the Chihuahua, and mini pins. You will need to rub the coat briskly until it is dry. Many times this method is not used because the cage drying method is much quicker and more effective, but if a towel is the only thing available then this method will work just fine. Make sure when using the towel drying method that the dogs coat is dry before you take them out.

If you read my last post you will know what you need to do the basics of dog grooming. These tools that I am listing below are not as necessary for grooming your dog but will sometimes come in handy. More often than not you can not do without one or more of these dog grooming tools, especially once you’ve used them.

Hydraulic Grooming Table: This is a more sophisticated grooming table than the one we spoke about in our first article. The hydraulic grooming table can be raised and lowered from about 29″ up to almost 36″. This is a great help when grooming large breeds that you may not be able to lift up onto a stationary table. This type of grooming table should also be able to be folded and put away for easy storage.

Matting Comb: This heavy comb helps to remove mats on longer haired breeds of dogs.

Nail Clippers: For different sized breeds of dogs you will want different types of nail clippers. For smaller dogs you will want to get the scissor type, for a medium breed dog the guillotine type clipper is best and for larger dogs you will want a more robust clipper that is a pliers type to help with thicker and harder nails.

Oster Blades: For removing hair off of dogs these blades are numbered. The higher the number, the more hair it removes. The small animal clipper (A 2) is great to use although it does require interchangeable heads and that makes it a little less convenient. The A 5 model is a single piece clipper that has blades that snap into place. This is by far the easiest to use.

Oster Spray Lube: This is used to cool the blades as well as keep them lubricated. It also helps to prevent clipper burns and that’s a good think, just ask your dog.

Rubber Brush: Great for short haired breeds. I use this one on our lab.

Scissors: There are several options and well as sizes available that will handle any type of coat that you may have in front of you on the table.

Silk Handkerchief: used to polish shirt haired white dogs

Small Pin Brush: used for long haired small dogs

Stripping Knife: The fine stripping knife is used on sensitive areas like the head and ears while the coarse stripping knife is used elsewhere on the dog’s body.

Although it is not necessary to have all of these grooming tools available, especially if you are only doing one or two dogs, they can be quite handy to have if you are working on a particular breed. Having the right tools will help you to have a more successful and pleasant experience when grooming your dog that both you and your dog can appreciate.

If you are going to groom your own dog then you should make sure that you are well stocked with proper grooming tools. The basics of what you will need are a brush, and comb and possibly some scissors. Of course different types of coats on a dog will necessitate different types of grooming tools. For example, longer hair dogs will need a different type of brush than a shorter haired variety of dog. The same is true for straight coats and curly coats, but the basic list of dog grooming tools that you will need are as follows.

Bore’s Bristle Brush: For a long hair dog this is a great tool for removing undercoats and in removing mats that might have occurred in the undercoat.

Bristle Brush: These come in 3 basic varieties, stiff, medium and soft. They are used on short haired breeds and are good for regular brushing and for removing undercoats on longer haired breeds

Chamois: For a short haired breed you can’t beat the chamois for polishing their coat.

Comb. Try to get a steel tooth comb that is medium on one side and fine on the other, that way you can use it on most breeds of dogs

Snap-on Comb: If you want to do a quick clean up on your dog you can’t beat the snap-on comb. Simply slip it over a blade and it will leave a uniform clean cut coat on your dog. The snap-on Comb comes in a few different sizes.

Hound Glove: Used for grooming various short haired breeds in the hound family

Cage Dryer: This is a drying fan that attaches to the cage and dries the dog while it is inside the cage. Most cage dryers come with a heater so the dog isn’t too cold.

Floor dryer: Used mainly for “fluff drying” the floor dryer directs air onto the dog and helps to dry it. The floor dryer generally has a long arm and can be moved into various positions depending on the type of dog you are drying.

High Speed Floor Dryer: Similar to the other floor dryers except this on have a higher speed motor on it for fluff drying long hair breeds such as Poodles and Sheepdogs.

Grooming Post and Loop: Try to find a grooming post that is portable, so it can be attached to the table anywhere you need it. The loop fits over the dogs neck to keep him in place and keep him from hurting himself.

Grooming Table: A grooming table is typically about 2 to 3 feet and folds for easy moving and storage. They are about 30″ high and typically come with a rubber matting on the top of the table for comfort and to keep the dog from sliding around. A table this size is quite versatile and can be used for many different dog breeds.